Bearded Dragon Overview and Care Guide
Pogona Vitticeps
Species History
The Bearded Dragon is originally native to large swaths of modern day Australia and New Guinea. The species is the most common pet lizard in the world and has become well known by many outside of the reptile world. As the name suggests, the Bearded Dragon has a “beard”, a patch of its throat that can be flared out to scare off potential predators or other individuals of the same species.
Its natural habitat is made up of dry desert regions and open woodlands. Bearded Dragons will commonly be found on branches of small trees or shrubs or basking on rocks in the mornings and afternoons. The species is well adapted to the temperature shifts of their environment and will often spend the hottest part of the day in underground boughs.
The species has a varied diet and would be best described as a voracious omnivore. The list of their prey items in their natural ecosystem include lizards, arthropods, small rodents, and plant matter such as greens, fruit and flowers.
Bearded Dragons have a lifespan of 7-12 years when cared for properly. The species is diurnal, meaning they are most active during the day. Their docility and activity during the day have played a large part in their rise to popularity in the pet industry.
Care Principles
Enclosure Set-up
Bearded Dragons require plenty of space. The minimum tank size required for an adult is at least 4-6 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 2-3 tall. For a hatchling sized dragon, a smaller tank is acceptable, but as the animal matures, you must give it the space it needs. The tank should have a partially screened top to promote air flow. This lid should lock in place and be sturdy enough to place a heat lamp on.
Generally speaking, Bearded Dragons should not be kept in the same enclosure. Some individuals, especially males, will become territorial and overcrowding will lead to unnecessary stress on the animal. With care, adults can be kept in sexed pairs (one male, one female) but juveniles and adults or two adult males should never be paired up in the same tank.
Your enclosure should contain the following:
- A hiding place – A “wooden cave” is a great option for your Beardie to embrace its instinct to use a bough.
- A branch or other climbing structure – Your Dragon will like to climb and bask on them. You should have one or two options available.
- Substrate – You have many options here. Large Grained sand is commonly used (playground sand) but ideally a calciferous sand is preferable. Do not use wood shavings.
- Heating Light – Alternatively you can use a heating element. Temperature is described in more detail below.
- UVB Light – A UVB producing halogen bulb (preferred) or fluorescent tube is critical to maintain pet health. If your pet’s enclosure gets full sun without UV filtering glass this is not entirely necessary.
- Light timer – Not a requirement but it will make your life easier.
- Optionally: ceramic heat lamp or reptile heating pad – You may need this to help keep the correct temperature in the enclosure. We recommend going with a ceramic heat lamp over a heating pad. Do not use hot rocks.
- Aquarium thermometers – Usually inexpensive, you will need three, one to use 1″ above the enclosure floor on the “cool” side, one to use 1″ above the enclosure floor on the “hot” side and the other 1″ above the floor in the basking area. More on this below.
Temperature and Humidity
Lizards, unlike mammals and other endotherms, are unable to self regulate their internal temperature without the help of external heat sources.
Many experts create a temperature gradient in the enclosure, with a “hot” side and a “cool” side as well as a basking area. For your Bearded Dragon to remain healthy, we recommend the following temperature guidelines:
- During the day, the ambient air temperature must remain around 75 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool portion of the enclosure and 86 degrees Fahrenheit on the hot portion of the enclosure.
- During the night, the ambient air temperature must not drop below 73 degrees Fahrenheit.
- A basking place should be provided, at the temperatures of 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.
To keep the Dragon’s enclosure in this temperature range, you have a number of options. We recommend using a heating lamp on a daylight timer (on 12 hours a day) to create a basking area and the necessary thermal gradient in the cage. If temperatures fall below the desired range outlined above, a ceramic heater (ideally) or a heat pad can be used.
Once in place, adjust the intensity and height of the heat lamp (and ceramic heater if using) to fine tune the temperature to the above ranges. Keep in mind that as the seasons change you will need to adjust your heating strategy.
It is highly recommended that you check the temperature often in the different areas of the tank during different times in the day to be sure that it is in the above range. Incorrect temperature can lead to a long list of health issues and even death.
Diet and Feeding
Due to their extremely diverse diet in their natural ecosystems, you will need to replicate this diversity when feeding your Bearded Dragon. Possible food items include appropriately sized crickets, roaches, superworms, hornworms, wax worms, and day old mice. As the animal matures, small rodents can provide an excellent source of nutrition and should be mixed into their standard diet occasionally (at maximum every two weeks).
In addition to these prey items, you should also provide your Bearded Dragon access to shredded/torn plant matter such as assorted greens (“spring mix” is a great option, romaine, dandelions) as well as carrots, squash, mango, cantaloupe, and raspberries. Change this offering often and provide plenty of diversity.
When considering feeding frequency, there are a number of factors to consider such as age, time of year, and size of meals. Hatchlings and juveniles can be fed up to twice daily. Dragons from 4 months of age to adulthood can be fed once daily to every two days. It is recommended to offer food in the mornings so that digestion occurs during the warmest part of the day. Many owners will provide plant matter for their Dragon daily, allowing the animal to eat as needed. They will then follow the above schedule to provide feeder insects.
If you buy your feeder insects in bulk, make the effort to properly care for them. Hungry insects do not provide the maximum level of nutrition for your pet.
When feeding your Dragon a pinkie (one day old mouse) be sure that it is completely dethawed. Hold the rodent by the tail using a pair of reptile feeding tongs and dangle it in front of your Dragon. Your Bearded Dragon will strike at the rodent.
It is a common myth that oversized food can cause your Dragon serious physical problems such as inability to self-feed, gut impaction, loss of motor control, and in some cases, death. While not ideal, over sized food is NOT as dangerous as the reptile industry makes it seem. This concept has absolutely zero evolutionary backing, as turning down a meal that is too large would be a major fitness disadvantage. Do your best to size food appropriately, but in the end it matters much less than factors such as diet diversity. A general rule of the thumb is that any prey that is ⅔ the size of the lizard’s head is considered properly sized.
Water is just as if not more important than food. Your Dragon should always have a clean water source available in its enclosure. Water should be changed regularly (every couple of days) and should the Dragon defecate or otherwise infect its water source, it should be cleaned and replaced as soon as possible.
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Bearded Dragon Supply List
If you’re wondering what you’ll need to provide great bearded dragon care, here’s our list of needed supplies!
Enclosure: A glass terrarium of at least 120 gallons for an adult bearded dragon, with a secure lid to prevent escapes.
Substrate: We recommend a DIY option. You’ll need play sand and organic soil. Check out our guide here.
Temperature Control:
- Basking Light: A basking bulb to provide a heat source for thermoregulation.
- Ceramic Heat Emitter (for night use if room temperature falls below 65°F).
- Thermometers: At least three to monitor the temperature at the basking spot, the cool ends and the warm end of the terrarium.
Lighting:
- UVB Lighting: A tube-style UVB light that covers two-thirds of the tank’s length, to facilitate calcium metabolism and prevent metabolic bone disease.
- Light Timer: To maintain a consistent day/night cycle.
Furnishings:
- Basking Spot: A rock or branch under the basking light where the dragon can bask.
- Hiding Places: Caves or hides where the dragon can retreat to feel secure.
- Climbing Décor: Branches, rocks, and hammocks for climbing and enrichment.
Feeding Supplies:
- Feeding Dish: A shallow dish for vegetables and fruits.
- Insect Dish: A dish for live prey to prevent them from escaping into the substrate.
- Optional if You Feed a Great Diet: Calcium and Vitamin Supplements: To dust on feeder insects and vegetables for nutritional balance.
Maintenance Tools:
- Misting Bottle: For hydration and maintaining humidity.
- Poop Scoop or Tongs: For spot cleaning.
Misc.: A digital scale to monitor weight.
Incubation Supplies (if breeding): An incubator, vermiculite or perlite substrate for the eggs, and a temperature/humidity gauge.
Water Dish: A shallow dish for water that is refreshed daily.
Transport Carrier: For safe transportation to the vet or when cleaning the enclosure.
Misc.
Handling
Handling a Bearded Dragon is quite simple. Slide your hand underneath it and gently lift it up. Be sure to provide the animal with plenty of support while you hold it. Do not grip it too tightly. They tend to be fairly trusting animals with a streak of curiosity. If in a controlled space and under a watchful eye, you can let your Dragon explore its surroundings a bit.
As with all reptiles, if your pet is in a new situation (for example it’s being introduced to a new person) go slow and give the Dragon time to adjust to its new surroundings. If your Dragon seems distressed, give it a rest and try again later.
Shedding
Shedding is a normal and healthy process. As their skin becomes worn and too small, reptiles “shed” the old layer which is replaced by a fresh layer right underneath it. Bearded Dragons are not typically finicky when it comes to shedding. Be sure the animal has proper access to water and lightly mist them with water occasionally to ensure proper skin hydration.
Cleaning
Proper enclosure cleaning is key to maintaining your pets health and wellbeing. Whenever your Dragon defecates, remove the affected area of substrate immediately. If your Dragon is in a sand like mixture, you can use a kitty litter scoop to scoop out the excrement. Every 3-6 months you should do a deep clean of the enclosure.
During this process, remove your Dragon and move it to a separate container. Then follow our cleaning article to deep clean the enclosure. You’ll also want to clean any other items in the enclosure using the same process.
Common Concerns
If your Dragon fails to eat for an extended time period (over a week or two) or begins to behave abnormally, it may be a sign that it is sick. Like humans, illness can affect reptiles. Commonly a result of a bacteria or parasite infection, your reptile may need the care of a reptile vet professional. Other possible symptoms include a change in fecal/urine matter, fluid excrement near the eyes or mouth, or any visible parasites or discoloration on the surface of the snake’s skin. If you notice any of the above, it’s best you contact a reptile vet to help you best navigate the situation.
Bearded Dragon Flare Up
A “Bearded Dragon Flare Up” refers to the behavior exhibited by bearded dragons when they expand their beard, often displaying a darker color. This distinctive bearded dragon behavior is a form of communication that may signify various states, such as stress, territoriality, or mating readiness.
Causes of Bearded Dragon Flare Up Bearded dragons may flare up for several reasons. It’s a natural response that can be triggered by the presence of a potential threat, creating a more intimidating appearance. During a bearded dragon flare up, the dragon may also open its mouth wide and hiss, enhancing this display. The bearded dragon’s flare-up is not just for show; it’s a crucial part of their survival mechanism in the wild.
Territorial Display In the context of territoriality, a bearded dragon might flare up to assert dominance or defend its space. This is particularly common during interactions with other bearded dragons. Owners might notice more frequent flare-ups during the introduction of new dragons to an enclosure, which can indicate a bearded dragon’s discomfort with the invasion of its territory.
Stress-Induced Flare Up Stress is another common reason for a bearded dragon’s flare up. Various factors can contribute to stress, including changes in the environment, improper temperatures, inadequate diet, or even the presence of larger pets in the household. Observing a bearded dragon’s flare-up may prompt an evaluation of their habitat and care routine.
Mating Behavior Mating season may also see an increase in the bearded dragon flare up frequency, as males display their beards to attract females or to compete with other males. This natural behavior is normal and to be expected during certain times of the year.
Health-Related Flare Up Occasionally, a bearded dragon flare up could indicate an underlying health issue. If a dragon is persistently displaying a flared beard without apparent cause, it may be advisable to consult a veterinarian experienced with reptiles to rule out health concerns.