Leopard Gecko
Eublepharis macularius
Species History
The Leopard Gecko is originally native to large portions of modern day Pakistan. The species has gained a spike in popularity recently as a pet. As the name suggests, the species resembles a leopard, yellow with dark spots.
Its natural habitat is made up of rocky countryside and scrubby vegetation. Leopard Geckos will commonly avoid deserts and other dry areas, preferring humid areas. They can commonly be found hunting in grassy areas or bushes and spend much of their time in loose groups under rocks, in crevasses, or other confined spaces.
The species typically fed on various insects including caterpillars, beetles, grasshoppers, and centipedes. They are nocturnal, and do most of their foraging and hunting at night. In more wooded areas, the species exhibits some semi-abnormal behavior. They are capable climbers and will sometimes scale several feet of rock to reach a resting place.
The species exhibits some social behavior with small groups of subadults forming. Males are often territorial and will fight other males for access to females.
Care Principles
Enclosure Set-up
Leopard Geckos do not require massive amounts of space. The minimum tank size required depends on the number of geckos housed. For one individual, a 10 gallon tank may do, but a 20 gallon tank is recommended. Keep in mind that two males should never be housed together. A tank with a partially screened locking top is a good idea.
Your enclosure should contain the following:
- A hiding place – A small hide box will be needed to give your gecko a place to hide.
- A branch or other climbing structure – Rocks and logs provide geckos with plenty of things to climb and explore.
- Substrate – You have options here. We recommend our DIY natural substrate. Large Grained sand is commonly used (playground sand). Alternatively, you can use paper towels or butcher paper. Do not use wood shavings.
- Heating Light – Temperature is described in more detail below.
- Optional: Ceramic Heating Lamp or Heating Pad – A ceramic heating lamp is preferred. Temperature is described in more detail below.
- Light Timer – Not a requirement but it will make your life easier.
- Aquarium thermometers – Usually inexpensive, you will need two, one to use 1″ above the enclosure floor on the “cool” side, one to use 1″ above the enclosure floor on the “hot” side.
Temperature and Humidity
Geckos, unlike mammals and other endotherms, are unable to self regulate their internal temperature without the help of external heat sources.
Many experts create a setup that has a “hot” side and a “cool” side of the enclosure to allow the animal to regulate its own temperature. For your Leopard Gecko to remain healthy, we recommend the following temperature guidelines:
- During the day, the ambient air temperature should remain around 70 degrees fahrenheit on the cool portion of the enclosure and 86 degrees fahrenheit on the hot portion of the enclosure.
- During the night, the ambient air temperature should remain in the low 70’s
To keep the Gecko’s enclosure in this temperature range, you have a number of options. We recommend using a standard heating lamp on a daylight timer (on for 12 hours a day) to create the above-mentioned “hot” side of the tank. You may need to use a ceramic heating lamp if temperatures fall below the desired range outlined above.
Once in place, adjust the intensity and height of the heat lamp (and ceramic heater if using) to fine tune the temperature to the above ranges. Keep in mind that as the seasons change you will need to adjust your heating strategy. It is highly recommended that you check the temperature often in the different areas of the tank during different times in the day to be sure that it is in the above range. Incorrect temperature can lead to a long list of health issues and even death.
Proper humidity is important for proper shedding. Often the best way to accomplish this is to lightly moisten the area under their hide box as well as ensuring you are using a high quality substrate (such as our DIY recipe).
Diet and Feeding
Leopard Geckos are typically fairly simple to feed as their diet in the wild is primarily made up of insects. Possible food items include roaches, crickets, waxworms, soldier fly larvae, and mealworms. As the animal matures, small pinkie mice can provide an excellent source of nutrition and should be mixed into their standard diet occasionally (at maximum every two weeks).
When considering feeding frequency, there are a number of factors to consider such as age, time of year, and size of meals. Hatchlings and juveniles can be fed every day. Adults can be fed every two to three days.
If you buy your feeder insects in bulk, make the effort to properly care for them. Hungry insects do not provide the maximum level of nutrition for your pet. Optionally, some experts recommend a reptile multivitamin every other feeding.
As a rule of thumb, food items should not be wider or longer than your gecko’s head although the importance of this is commonly overplayed. Some sources recommend that your Gecko eat in a different container from its standard tank. In practice this is a significant amount of added work. If you use a suitable substrate, this should not be an issue. After all, in the wild, this is not of concern at all.
When feeding your Gecko a pinkie (one day old mouse) be sure that it is completely dethawed. Hold the rodent by the tail using a pair of reptile feeding tongs and dangle it in front of your Gecko. Your Leopard Gecko will strike at the rodent.
Water is just as if not more important than food. Your Gecko should always have a clean water source available in its enclosure in a shallow water dish. Water should be changed regularly (daily) and should the Gecko defecate or otherwise infect its water source, it should be cleaned and replaced as soon as possible. Clean the water dish weekly following our cleaning process. Additionally, be sure to lightly spray the enclosure features with water daily as some geckos prefer to drink water run off.
If your gecko has trouble eating, be sure to follow the above temperature and food guidelines. If the problem persists, bring your pet to a qualified vet.
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Misc.
Handling
Some Gecko’s do not mind being handled, but it is entirely dependent on the individual. To do so, gently slide your hand under the gecko. Provide plenty of support and do not grip or grab the animal too tightly.
As with all reptiles, if your pet is in a new situation (for example it’s being introduced to a new person) go slow and give the Gecko time to adjust to its new surroundings. If your Gecko seems distressed, give it a rest and try again later.
Shedding
Shedding is a normal and healthy process. As their skin becomes worn and too small, reptiles “shed” the old layer which is replaced by a fresh layer right underneath it. Leopard Geckos are not typically finicky when it comes to shedding. Be sure the animal has proper access to water and if needed lightly mist under their hide box occasionally to ensure proper skin hydration.
Cleaning
Proper enclosure cleaning is key to maintaining your pets health and wellbeing. Whenever your Gecko defecates, remove the affected area of substrate immediately. Leopard geckos often create latrines in a corner of their enclosure. This area should be cleaned daily. Every 3-6 months you should do a deep clean of the enclosure.
During this process, remove your Gecko and move it to a separate container. Then follow our cleaning process outlined here. You’ll also want to clean any other items in the enclosure using the same process.
Common Concerns
If your Gecko fails to eat for an extended time period (over a week or two) or begins to behave abnormally, it may be a sign that it is sick. Like humans, illness can affect reptiles. Commonly a result of a bacteria or parasite infection, your reptile may need the care of a reptile vet professional. Other possible symptoms include a change in fecal/urine matter, fluid excrement near the eyes or mouth, or any visible parasites or discoloration on the surface of the snake’s skin. If you notice any of the above, it’s best you contact a reptile vet to help you best navigate the situation.