Crested Gecko
Correlophus ciliatus
Species History
The Crested Gecko has had a relatively recent climb to popularity in the pet industry. The species originates from the islands of New Caledonia, a modern day French territory in the South Pacific Ocean about 800 miles east of Australia. It was discovered in 1866 by French explorers in the region and then thought to have gone extinct in the 1890s. The species was rediscovered in 1994.
Crested Geckos are arboreal, meaning they spend an extremely high percentage of their time in the thick canopy they inhabit. They are primarily a nocturnal species, and generally sleep through the day. Like many other geckos, they are strong climbers and are impressive jumpers.
In their natural ecosystem, Crested Geckos are omnivorous and feed on many different types of insects and fruits. Their lifespan in the wild is unknown, although in captivity some individuals have been documented living to over 20 years old. Most adults reach a total length of around 8 inches including their tails. Crested geckos easily lose and do not regrow their tails, giving them the common name, frog butt. Tail loss does not affect crested geckos and may even be a competitive advantage in the wild.
Care Principles
Enclosure Set-up
You’ll want at least a 20 gallon tank to house your Crested Gecko. When selecting an enclosure, keep in mind that Gecko’s typically need as much vertical space as possible. It is critical that this tank has a locking top with a fine screen. If you plan on housing two geckos in the same enclosure, get at least a 30 gallon tank. Male’s should never be housed together.
Your enclosure should contain the following:
- A hiding place – there are a wide variety of hide boxes available for reptiles, you’ll want something that is dark and large enough for the gecko to conceal itself
- Many branches or other climbing structures – your gecko will need things to climb and places to rest
- Live plants such as pothos and creeping fig
- Substrate – We recommend moss or peat, although other natural substrates can be used
- Ceramic Heating Lamp – Temperature is very important to reptile health
- Aquarium thermometer – Usually inexpensive, you’ll want to place this thermometer between 1-2 inches from the bottom of the tank above the heating pad
- Aquarium Humidity gauge
- Spray Bottle
Temperature and Humidity
Gecko’s, unlike mammals and other endotherms, are unable to self regulate their internal temperature without the help of external heat sources. A temperature gradient is key to allow your gecko to self regulate its temperature as needed. Aim for a temperature gradient of 72-80 degrees. This is most easily accomplished by placing a ceramic heating lamp above the enclosure. The top half of the tank will be the hotter end of the gradient with the lower portion being on the cooler side.
Crested Geckos require a humidity of right around 70%. Keep a close eye on your humidity gauge in the enclosure and use a spray bottle to mist the inside of the tank as needed.
Diet and Feeding
A healthy Crested Gecko will usually eat every 2-3 days. When considering feeding frequency, there are a number of factors to consider such as age, time of year, and size of meals. Some sources recommend using supplements and meal replacement products. You can go this direction if you choose, although we cannot recommend a diet other than one that most closely matches their diet in the wild.
Offer your crested gecko pureed fruits such as raspberries, grapes, melon, bananas and peaches every 2 days. Do not feed your crested gecko citrus fruits. Remove the uneaten food after 24 hours. Then every 3-4 days, offer your crested gecko crickets, dubia roaches, or other various insect varieties such as hornworms and superworms. A balanced diet of fruits and insects is crucial to proper nutrition and health.
Water is just as if not more important than food. Your gecko should always have a clean water source available in its enclosure. Water should be changed regularly (every couple of days) and should the gecko defecate or otherwise infect its water source, it should be cleaned and replaced as soon as possible.
If your gecko doesn’t eat its insects right away, leave the insects in the enclosure overnight. As the species is notcurtal, they actively hunt at night. If they still don’t eat the insects, do not feed them any fruits for a day or two. This should prompt them to eat the live insects. This technique encourages a more balanced diet.
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Misc.
Handling
Crested Geckos are generally a calm species when handled correctly, although some individuals will exhibit “nervous” behaviors such as jumping away from the handler. To pick up a gecko, gently slide your hand underneath it and lift it carefully. Allow the animal to move around freely in your hands. Leave your hands partially open and never hold the gecko tightly. Never make sudden movements or jerk the gecko.
Shedding
Shedding is a normal and healthy process. As their skin becomes worn and too small, a gecko “sheds” the old layer which is replaced by a fresh layer right underneath it. Generally speaking you should not experience many issues with Crested Gecko shedding. If the gecko appears to be having difficulty shedding skin or it is uneven, ensure the enclosure is at the proper humidity.
Cleaning
Proper enclosure cleaning is key to maintaining your pets health and wellbeing. Whenever your gecko defecates, remove the affected area of substrate immediately. Most often, your gecko will likely defecate on the side glass of its enclosure making clean-up very easy. Every couple months you should complete a deep clean of the tank.
During this process, remove the gecko and move it to a separate container. Then remove all substrate from the enclosure and use a reptile safe cleaner to clean the interior of the tank. Rise it thoroughly. You’ll also want to clean any other items (apart from live plants) in the enclosure using the same process. Check out our guide to cleaning for more information on this.
Common Concerns
If the gecko fails to eat for a number of days in a row or begins to behave abnormally, it may be a sign that the gecko is sick. Like humans, illness can affect reptiles. Commonly a result of a bacteria or parasite infection, your reptile may need the care of a reptile vet professional. Other possible symptoms include a change in fecal/urine matter, fluid excrement near the eyes or mouth, or any visible parasites on the surface of the snake’s skin. If you notice any of the above, it’s best you contact a reptile vet to help you best navigate the situation.