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Leopard Gecko Temperature and Humidity

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Temperature and Humidity inside your leopard gecko’s enclosure is really important. We’ll walk you through the current temperature and humidity standards based on well researched science. We’ll answer all the key questions:

  • What temperature should my leopard gecko’s enclosure be?
  • How do I heat my leopard gecko enclosure?
  • Why is temperature so important for leopard geckos?
  • What lights will I need for my leopard gecko?
What’s with the ?

Science and accuracy matter. We’re not self proclaimed experts. Everything here is cited and attributed to well educated and experienced researchers, vets, and non-profits. Click the check to see the source. Don’t trust any site that does it differently. 

Recommended Temperature Gradient

TLDR: Reptiles cannot generate their own body heat like humans can. It can be catastrophic if our body temperature gets too high or low, as it impacts critical biological function. It's the same for your pet.

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Before we break down what temperature and humidity your pets enclosure should be at, let’s discuss a high level and important biological concept. Reptiles are ectothermic. This is commonly referred to as ‘cold blooded’. This definition is highly misleading as a reptile’s blood is usually not cold at all. More accurately this means the internal temperature of reptiles is entirely dependent on the external sources (such as air temperature and solar radiation) of their environment.Unlike humans and other mammals, they are unable to internally regulate their temperature.

Humidity presents a similar importance. For many reptiles, proper humidity is required from proper shedding. This is typically easier to maintain in most homes than temperature is.

Why does this matter?

Reptiles need to regulate their internal temperatures to facilitate normal and healthy biological function. As an example, a reptile that is digesting a meal requires a warmer internal temperature to do so effectively. Internal temperature of reptiles can even impact their ability to breathe (respiratory function)! To manage this reptiles rely on moving between various parts of their environment that are at different temperatures. 

If a reptile needs to warm its internal temperature, it moves to a warm area (basking is a great example of such a behavior). Vice visa if it becomes too hot and needs to cool off. 

How does this apply to leopard geckos?

Leopard geckos are primarily active at night. As a result, they rely much more heavily on the temperatures of the substratum (for our purposes, their substrate and hides) to regulate temperature as opposed to basking behaviors found in other species. It is therefore highly important that we create the proper substrate and environmental temperature inside your leopard gecko’s enclosure. As you’ve learned, leopard geckos need to move to warmer/cooler areas to thermoregulate correctly. To enable this critical behavior, we actually need to provide a temperature range inside your leopard gecko’s enclosure, commonly referred to as a temperature gradient.
The available research suggests that leopard geckos will average body temperature during the day of 25.8C or 78.4F when given freedom on a wide temperature gradient. To give our captive leopard gecko’s this same freedom, establish the following temperature gradient inside your leopard gecko’s enclosure:
  • A ‘hot’ point, usually a basking area directly under a heat lamp (more on that in a moment) that is 95F +/- 1 degree. 
  • A ‘warm’ side of the enclosure (for obvious reasons on the same side as your hot point), that is 90F +/- 1 degree
  • A ‘cool’ side of the enclosure that is between 70-75F +/- 1 degree

What should the temperatures be at night?

Research on the leopard gecko strongly suggests they seek to maintain a stable body temperature throughout all 24 hours of the day. 
Due to this, we recommend you allow temperatures to drop while still facilitating their continued thermoregulation: 

  • No ‘hot’ point
  • A ‘warm’ side of the enclosure that is 80F +/- 1 degree
  • A ‘cool’ side of the enclosure that is at or just below 70F +/- 1 degree

How do I maintain these temperatures (what supplies do I need)?

Now you know what temperatures you should keep your leopard gecko set-up at. What do you need to keep the temperatures inside these ranges?

For the average home, you’ll need the following for day time temperature management:

  • A halogen heat bulb (An affordable well reviewed option)
    • Typically 50W-75W depending on the size of your enclosure and room temperature. 50W should be plenty for smaller set-ups. A 75W or larger bulb will likely be required for larger enclosures.  
    • You can use other bulb types, like incandescent, but halogen bulbs typically produce more heat and are therefore preferred. Maintaining the temperature gradient with safe heating elements is what matters.
  • Dimmable heat lamp fixture (An affordable well reviewed option)
    • Ensure it is rated at a high enough wattage to match your bulb
    • Dimmable is crucial. It’ll give us the flexibility needed to dial in the temperature range 

For the average home, you’ll need the following for night time temperature management:

  • A ceramic heat bulb (An affordable well reviewed option)
    • 50W should be plenty for smaller set-ups. A 75W or larger bulb may be required for larger enclosures. 
    • Important to note this bulb produces ONLY heat and no light
  • Dimmable heat lamp fixture (An affordable well reviewed option)
    • Ensure it is rated at a high enough wattage to match your bulb
    • Dimmable is crucial. It’ll give us the flexibility needed to dial in the temperature range

An Alternative Option to Lamps (we don’t recommend this path)

You can in theory use an under-tank heat pad. Fundamentally, these do not match the natural environment of leopard geckos. Heat comes from above in the wild, not from below. This could present an issue caused by the behavior of leopard geckos to burrough down when seeking cooling temperatures. For this reason, we believe above enclosure heating to be superior. Using such heating techniques is risky at best, and dangerous at worst. 

If you do choose to use a heat pad either for night or day temperature management, be sure to follow the following the appropriate safety guidelines. 

UVB: What is it? Do I need it? Which one should I get?

The use of UVB bulbs for leopard geckos is somewhat contested. You’ll find many sources that say you can’t go without one, and others that say you don’t need one at all.

This question is more complex than it might seem at first. Using real science and research we’ve done our best to present an objective answer.

TLDR: Get a UVB. Leopard geckos can synthesize vitamin D using it, and it’s a better approach than supplementation. Vitamin D deficiency is far too common and very dangerous.

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The use of a UVB light for leopard geckos is somewhat contested. To understand this fully there is some crossover with supplements and general nutrition. We explore this more completely in our diet and feeding guide for leopard geckos.  To summarize: 
  • Vitamin D3 is a precursor of 25(OH)- and 1,25(OH)2D hormones. What’s critical to understand is proper Vitamin D3 levels are required for proper calcium absorption
  • As a result, Vitamin D3 and Calcium are both critical for maintaining proper bone health and development. When either of these nutrients are at an insufficient level, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is a possible and likely outcome. 
  • Leopard Geckos get their Vitamin D from two sources: Their diet, and UVB light. In theory, leopard geckos can get enough Vitamin D from diet alone.  However, most feeder insects are fairly low in Vitamin D.  Due to the complexities of using supplements,  we think it makes far more sense to offer UVB light to leopard geckos in captivity.  In theory, this would enable them to effectively manage their own Vitamin D levels without worry of over/under supplementation, both of which can have disastrous effects.  

TLDR: Getting the correct UVI at the point in your enclosure where your gecko will be is the only thing that matters. You'll have a number of brand and model choices. Follow manufacturer guidelines to achieve a UVI between .5-1.5.

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There’s a lot of options, and frankly it can be overwhelming. Arcadia and ReptiSun by ZooMed are two of the more popular brand choices. 

Regardless of brand and specific model, we are aiming to achieve a UVI of between .5-1.5 at the point where your animal will be.  Because the UVB bulb will only be active for 2 hours a day (research has shown leopard geckos are able to synthesize sufficient vitamin D with limited UVB exposure ) falling on the higher side of the range is less of a concern than if the bulb was active for 12 hours a day.

To achieve this UVI, we can use manufacturer suggestions of bulb and height from the animal. Our suggestions are as follows:

For a height of 8-13 inches above your animal

For our purposes, we define height to animal is the height from the bulb to the basking area you’ve created in your enclosure. Use the ReptiSun 10.0 Mini CFL (with fixture) or the ReptiSun 5.0 T8 Linear (currently not in stock in places we’ve been able to check).

For a height of 13-19 inches above your animal

For our purposes, we define height to animal is the height from the bulb to the basking area you’ve created in your enclosure. Use the ReptiSun T8 10.0 (replacement bulbs).

All UVB bulbs lose their effectiveness overtime. Generally speaking you’ll want to replace these every 6 months to ensure your pet receives the ideal UVB. The UVB bulbs in your leopard geckos enclosure may last longer due to the shorter daily run time in this set up. Better safe than sorry in this regard.

Getting things set-up and your temperatures right

TLDR: Adjust the intensity of your heat lamps until you can maintain the temperature gradient outlined above. Light emitting heating lamps should be on for 12 hours a day and off for 12 hours a day.

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Once you have everything you need, what do you do next? How do you set up the lights and heating elements in your leopard gecko’s set up to get things set at the right temperature? 

The Halogen Heat Lamp

  1. Set up the enclosure as you expect to have it, including the basking rock and hides. See our guide on enclosure elements that covers how to do this. 
  2. During this process, you’ll decide what your warm side will be, and with this, where your basking spot will be. 
  3. Set up your halogen heat lamp first.
    • You really have three variables to establishing the correct temperature inside the enclosure: 
      • The lamp height/distance from the enclosure. Generally speaking, raising the lamp higher will diffuse the heat, lowering the heat of the basking spot and spreading a portion of it to the surrounding area. 
      • The intensity set by the dimming feature on your lamp fixture. This is intuitive, turn it up for more heat, and down for less. 
      • The lamp wattage itself, see above instructions on selecting the right wattage. Unfortunately there’s no hard guide for getting this correct. It may take trial and error. 
  4. Do this process during the day, when the room temperature is what you’d expect most days. To start, set up the heat lamp up just above the top of your enclosure. Wait 15 minutes and take the temperature of both the basking rock, and the surrounding area. With some trial and error (see the above variables) you should find a set up that meets the basking spot and surrounding temperature needs fairly closely.
  5. Then take the temperature of the cool side of the enclosure, not near the heat lamp, to ensure it’s within the desired range as well. If your room temperature is within a reasonable range, you’ll find it should not be less than 70 degrees. If it’s not cool enough, you’ll have to move the basking set up and lamp further from that side.

The Lightless Ceramic Heat Lamp

Repeat the above process with the lightless ceramic heat lamp. Of course you won’t have a basking spot for the nighttime set up so it is more straightforward. Be sure to complete this process at the room temperature you expect at night. If your house cools off a couple of degrees at night (like most houses do), this is important to achieving the correct temperatures.

Pro-Tip

If your basking area/Hot side is not hot enough, using a piece of rock slab and raising it up closer to the lamp can capture much more heat.

  1. With temperature dialed in, set up your UVB bulb on the same side as the basking bulb. Ensure you have the correct bulb to match the height the bulb sits from your pet by following manufacturer guidelines.
    • Connect the bulb to your power strip, and set the timer up to be on for two hours a day. One hour when your halogen light first goes on in the morning, and one hour before it goes off. Our recommendation is one hour starting at 6AM and one hour starting at 6PM. 
    • If you choose, you can run this bulb to match the timer of the halogen heat bulb (a full 12 hours). As reviewed above, this is not required. 
  2. Connect the halogen heat fixture to power, and set a timer up. We’ll aim for a 12-12 Hour Light to Dark ratio. During summer, you could increase this to 14:10 , although generally 12:12 should be sufficient year round to mimic a crepuscular exposure pattern. 
    We’d recommend having the lights turn on at 6AM and off at 6PM.
  3. Connect the ceramic heater to power, and set a timer up. This heater should be on when you halogen heat fixture is off. We’d recommend having the ceramic heat lamp turn on at 6PM and off at 6AM the next morning.
  1. With everything set up, before placing your leopard gecko in their new home, take 24 hours and ensure everything is working as expected. Do the lights turn on and off at the right times? Check temperatures as often as you can, are they in the expected range? If not, adjust and continue testing. 
  2. In addition to checking surface temperatures. Be sure to check hide temperatures as well. Ensure they are matching closely to the surrounding area and are at the appropriate temperature. For more info on hides and their ideal temperatures, check out the enclosure elements. 

What humidity should my leopard gecko set-up be?

Leopard Gecko’s natural habitat typically has a humidity of 30-40%.  This matches the humidity of most homes, although it may be higher or lower in yours depending on the season and your location.  To keep this in check ensure your enclosure has plenty of ventilation so humidity does not build up. Should the humidity drop too low, use a spray bottle to moisten the substrate inside the enclosure every couple of days or as needed. Additionally, using the substrate we suggest helps regulate humidity naturally. 

With this said, we think it’s more important to create microclimates in hides rather than obsessing over the general humidity inside the enclosure. This will enable your pet to meet their humidity needs by moving around. For more on this, check out our encolure elements guide. 

What's next?

The Diet of Free-Roaming Australian Central Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps)

Authors: D.G.A.B. Oonincx, J.P. van Leeuwen, W.H. Hendriks, and A.F.B. van der Poel

This paper analyzes the diet of wild central bearded dragons. The authors discuss the results and compare it with previous research done on the topic. The result is a clear picture of what bearded dragons eat in their wild habitat, and what it means for us as pet owners. 

Gut Loading to Enhance the Nutrient Content of Insects As Food for Reptiles: A Mathematical Approach

Authors: Mark D. Finke

Dr. Finke is wildly regarded to be the most prolific and knowledgable researcher on feeder insects. In this work he tests and discuss techniques for improving the nutrient content of feeder insects. At the time of this writing, it appears Dr. Finke prefers gut-loading to dusting as a supplementation technique. 

Facts about Dietary Supplements

Authors: FDA

Energy Costs of Growth in Neonate Reptiles

Authors: Kenneth Nagy

Dr. Nagy is a bonafide metabolic rate expert. In this paper he discuss the energetic costs of growing reptiles and whether they need more energy than would be expected for an animal of their weight. 

ENERGETICS OF FREE-RANGING MAMMALS, REPTILES, AND BIRDS

Authors: Kenneth Nagy

Dr. Nagy is a bonafide metabolic rate expert. In this paper he summarizes the research of the field into one place. In doing so he provides us a mathematically sound approach for estimating the energy of needs of various reptiles. We have personally contacted Dr. Nagy to thank him for his work, and get his insight into how this translates to captive animals.  

Great Lakes Hornworm Analysis

Authors: N/A

While there is not much formal research on the hornworm’s nutritional content, private insect breeders have provided nutritional data done via lab. This source is one such example. 

Comparative nutrient analysis of four species of cockroaches used as food for insectivores by life stage, species, and sex

Authors: Anthony J. Cerreta, Dustin C. Smith, Kimberly Ange‐Van Heugten, Larry J. Minter

This research paper tests and discusses the nutrient composition of 4 cockroach species commonly available, including one of the most common: the Dubia Roach. 

Complete Nutrient Content of Four Species of Commercially Available Feeder Insects Fed Enhanced Diets During Growth

Authors: Mark D. Finke

Dr. Finke is wildly regarded to be the most prolific and knowledgable researcher on feeder insects. In this work he tests and discuss techniques for improving the nutrient content of feeder insects. At the time of this writing, it appears Dr. Finke prefers gut-loading to dusting as a supplementation technique. 

Complete Nutrient Content of Four Species of Feeder Insects

Authors: Mark D. Finke

Dr. Finke is wildly regarded to be the most prolific and knowledgable researcher on feeder insects. In this work he breaks down the nutrient content of common feeder insects. In doing so he shows they have varied nutrient composition. 

Diversity is the key to success with reptile diets

Authors: Mark A. Mitchell, DVM, PhD, MS, DECZM (Herpetology)

Dr. Mitchell is an extremely influential researcher and vet. In this work he describes what he believes to be a core principle of a good diet: diet diversity. 

Update on Common Nutritional Disorders of Captive Reptiles

Authors: Christoph Mans, DVM , Jana Braun, DVM

This work identifies common nutritional disorders among captive reptiles. The authors argue that prevention is easier, and far more effective than treating already present disorders. 

Insectivorous reptile nutrition and disease (Proceedings)

Author: Ryan S. De Voe, DVM, MSpVM, DACZM, DABVP

In this work, Dr. De Voe discusses the basics of reptile nutrition, with a focus on insectivorous reptiles. In doing so he discusses how owners can provide a better diet to their pet to avoid common health issues related to diet. 

Current thoughts on reptile nutrition (Proceedings)

Author: Byron de la Navarre, DVM

Dr. Navarre is a Past-President, Assn. of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians. In this work he outlines his current thoughts, best practices, and concerns with the state of reptile nutrition.

What’s my home’s humidity level – and why does it matter?

Author: saveonenergy.ca

This energy company writes an article describing the average humidity of homes. The article was not intended for reptile care use, but provides a good benchmark for your likely humidity levels inside your home. 

Lighting, Temperatures & Humidity Levels

Author: Mariah Healey

This blog style care guide pulls in various research and expert opinions. This page specifically reviews the author’s care guidelines for leopard gecko’s regarding lighting, temperature, and humidity. 

Evaluating the Physiologic Effects of Short Duration Ultraviolet B Radiation Exposure in Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius)

Authors: Amelia Gould, DVM, Laure Molitor, MS, DVM, Kelly Rockwell, MZ, DVM, Megan Watson, DVM, MS, Mark A. Mitchell, DVM, MS, PhD, DECZM (Herpetology)

This research study seeks to determine if leopard geckos are able to synthesize Vitamin D with use of UVB like other reptiles. The study results found that leopard geckos exposed to only 2 hours of UVB are able to synthesize a significant amount of Vitamin D without dietary supplementation. The authors additional share some concerns over exposing leopard gecko’s to 12 hours of UVB, especially if the animal does not have access to shelter. 

Insectivorous reptile nutrition and disease (Proceedings)

Author: Ryan S. De Voe, DVM, MSpVM, DACZM, DABVP

This article written by an experienced reptile vet, discusses the basics of insectivorous reptile nutrition, paying particular attention to the role vitamin A and Vitamin D play in a healthy diet. The author notes a handful of challenges in using supplementation to combat malnutrtional disorders. Notably, the varying quality, and possiblity of vitamin and mineral toxicity causes by overuse of supplements. 

Effects of vitamin D3 supplementation and UVb exposure on the growth and plasma concentration of vitamin D3 metabolites in juvenile bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps)

Authors: D.G.A.B. Oonincx, Y. Stevens, J.J.G.C. van den Borne, J.P.T.M. van Leeuwen, W.H. Hendriks

This research paper analyzes the effects of different Vitamin D sources in a common pet, the bearded dragon. This source was used however to determine the likelihood that feeder insects can provide adequate Vitamin D strictly from diet absorption. The source is very clear: many common feeder insects are lacking in Vitamin D. 

The nocturnal leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) uses UVb radiation for vitamin D3 synthesis

Authors: D.G.A.B. Oonincx, J.J.E. Diehl, M. Kik, F.M. Baines, A.C. Heijboer, W.H. Hendriks, G. Bosch

This research paper analyzes the effects of UVB exposure to Vitamin D3 synthesis in leopard geckos. The results suggest minimal UVB exposure, only 2 hours a day, is sufficient for a significant increase in Vitamin D3 synthesis. The results also suggest dietary Vitamin D3 can be sufficient, with a couple of caveats.

Effects of different vitamin D sources on blood biochemistry of bearded dragons (Pogona spp) and Hermann’s tortoises (Testudo hermanni)

Author: Nikoletta Hetényi, Zsolt Lang, Tamás Sátorhelyi, István Hullár

This research paper analyzes the effects of various Vitamin D sources and their effects on bearded dragons and tortoises. While this research is specific to these species, it does provide a well crafted overview of the risks of low Vitamin D in all reptiles.

Guidance from My Nature Lab

Author: N/A

My Nature Lab is an educational non-profit that cares for well over 100 reptiles. Their team has more than 50 years of collective experience researching and caring for reptiles.  Through conversations with their animal care team and founder, we’ve learned from the very best. 

Temperature preference in geckos: Diel variation in juveniles and adults

Author: Yehudah Werner

This paper looks into the temperature preferences of leopard geckos throughout the entire day. They offered the animals a strong temperature gradient enabling the animals complete freedom to move around as they desired. The witnessed behaviors provide insight into the needs of geckos in captivity.

Multiple Sources Used

Authors: N/A

We used a multi-source approach to ensure this temperature recommendation was spot on. We consulted My Nature Lab, who cares for hundreds of reptiles, including quite a few leopard geckos. Utlizing their guidelines,  research on their wild habitat, and their ideal temperature, we landed on this gradient as optimal. In theory, a different gradient could be just as successful at enablding proper theormoregulation. It should be well back and based in the research.

Behavior of the terrestrial nocturnal lizards Goniurosaurus kuroiwae kuroiwae and Eublepharis macularius (Reptilia: Eublepharidae) in a thigmothermal gradient

Authors: Yehudah Werner, William Mautz, Hiroo Takahashi, Hidetoshi Ota

This paper describes the behavior of leopard geckos when given the freedom to thermoregulate their internal temperature on a wide temperature gradient. Their results provide an estimate average temperature of the leopard gecko. 

Temperature and respiratory function in ectothermic vertebrates

Authors: Glauber S.F. da Silva, Mogens L. Glass, Luiz G.S. Branco

This paper describes the importance of proper thermoregulation in reptiles. It explores the biological processes in vertebrates that are impacted by internal temperature. With this research a strong case is made for the impotence of temperature in proper husbandry. 

THERMOREGULATION IN REPTILES, A FACTOR IN EVOLUTION

Author: CHARLES M. BOGERT

This paper describes the thermoregulation of reptiles. By providing a basis and explanation of the adaptation from an evolutionary point of view, we quickly see the importance for captive care. 

Does Loose Substrate Cause Impaction in Bearded Dragons and Other Reptiles?

Author: Mariah Healey

This blog post breaks down the common myth that loose substrate can cause impaction. There are a couple of points to this issue. Impaction is caused by improper care, not the loose substrate we advocate here. 

Conversation and study with Cameron Young

Author: Cameron Young

This source is not a documented research paper. Rather it’s information provided direct from an expert. Cameron is the founder and executive director of The Center For Snake Conservation, and their educational wing My Nature Lab. He and his team have personally cared for thousands of reptiles with impressive effectiveness. They have a wealth of knowledge on the biology and proper care of reptiles. 

Natural history and biology of hobbyist choice leopard gecko

Author: Muhammad Sharif Khan

This source, written by a researcher at a Herpetological Laboratory in the leopard geckos native habitat of Pakistan provides a detailed account of the leopard geckos natural habit and behavior. Due to the political environment that has surrounded the country for many years, we are very grateful for Muhammad’s research.

Guidelines for Inspection of Companion and Commercial Animal Establishments

Authors: Clifford Warwick, Mike Jessop, Phillip Arena, Anthony Pilny and Catrina Steedman

This source, written by a team of veteran reptile researchers, outlines a guideline and system for establishing the minimum enclosure size for a variety of exotic animals. The authors note that this system is just an estimation. The estimation provided by their system is fairly in line with a number of anecdotal sources/best practices from other care authorities.

SOURCE NAME

Explanation of how we used the source. This source provides clear guidance on the importance of diet diversity. It should also include a bit about the source. Mark Mitchell is a well known researcher and has published 200 book chapters.